Fullmetal Alchemist Military Uniform
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General Uniform
The general uniform consists of 4 clothing pieces: pants, "skirt", jacket, and undershirt. It is blue in color, and the blue matches all pieces. The women's uniform has a skirt. Many times, officers are seen with trench coats (so I assume these are part of the uniform). More details can be found in the "Accessories" section. Material suggestions can be found under the "Jacket" section.
Pants
- The pants have an overlapped zipper fly (assuming it's a zipper, since it looks just like a pair of jeans or dress pants).
- For men's pants, the overlap goes left over right (women's pants its the other way, with right over left).
- There are front pockets, like on the usual dress pants. Roy is often seen with his left hand in his pocket. There are no back pockets.
- The pants stick out about an inch (2.5cm) above the belt. I haven't seen belt loops yet, so I don't think there are any.
- The pants fit like military fatigues. They are worn tucked into the boots. They puff out above the boot, but I don't think this is due to any extra material or width in the leg.
- There are lines down the front of each pant. I assume this isn't a seam line, but a crease - military outfits are usually ironed to perfection.
Suggested pants patterns
Simplicity 9469 (dress pants, shirt - may possibly use the collar for the jacket)
Butterick 3217 (looks like an old pattern, basically the same as simplicity above). For women, feel free to find a woman's dress pant's pattern - it would probably fit you better.
For women, this pattern might work: Simplicity It's So Easy 4939 (women's dress pants)
For Plus Sizes, Simplicity 4708 might work. It's got skirts and pants.
Please note: These are only suggestions. I have not tried them out before. I also only looked through the websites of Simplicity, Mccalls, Butterick and Vogue. There are more pattern sites online and more patterns in the catalogs at the stores. All pattern backs have fabric suggestions.
Real Skirt
(like Schezka)
- The skirt is fitted - it's not an A-line skirt. It fits more like a skirt worn to the office.
- It has a small slit in the sides, perhaps an inch to 1.5 inches high.
- It ends a few inches above the knee (probably only 2 or so). Try on some skirts in the stores, or look at business women's skirt lengths. Too short and it's indecent and not appropriate for the office. School uniforms usually have to just touch the knee - problem is, anime people aren't drawn the way most people are built (their thighs are really long).
Suggested skirt patterns
Simplicity 4787
Simplicity 5066 (yellow one on the bottom right)
Simplicity 9825
Simplicity 5259
Simplicity 4950 (short skirt)
Butterick 3597
Butterick 3392 (view D, add another slit, not so high)
Butterick 3133 (both skirts?)
Butterick 4388 (both)
Butterick 4196
For Plus Sizes, Simplicity 4708 might work. It's got skirts and pants.
Please note: These are only suggestions. I have not tried them out before. I also only looked through the websites of Simplicity, Mccalls, Butterick and Vogue. There are more pattern sites online and more patterns in the catalogs at the stores. All pattern backs have fabric suggestions.
Skirt (AKA "butt-cape")
- Skirt goes about 3/4 the way around the body.
- The length of the skirt ends at about the same place on every person, meaning the actual lengths vary. It ends above the boots, but below the knees. I'd guess just past the knees (maybe a few inches).
- Skirt has silver/grey trim and details, wider ones on the front, and thin color around the edges.
- The wide silver details end just past the crotch in the pants.
- The skirt goes under the belt.
- Bias tape is a good width for this trim.
- There's a back seam up the skirt. It's in line with the slit in the back.
- Slit lengths vary from character to character. I will cover more of this under each character uniform profile.
- There's a small upside-down triangle at the top of the slit.
- Skirt seems to be cut similar to an A-line skirt pattern. Be sure not to cut it too narrowly or else it will sit incorrectly. It needs a little bit of flare.
Suggested "skirt" patterns
Simplicity 5459 (or extend any short A-line skirt)
Butterick 4235
Butterick 3201
Please note: These are only suggestions. I have not tried them out before. I also only looked through the websites of Simplicity, Mccalls, Butterick and Vogue. There are more pattern sites online and more patterns in the catalogs at the stores. All pattern backs have fabric suggestions.
Undershirt
- The usual undershirt is a brownish-black color.
- The collar is fairly low.
- It's probably either a t-shirt or a tank top.
- It gets tucked into the pants.
- There is some variation among the characters; more detail is under each character uniform profile.
Jacket
- Jacket has epaulettes (displays on shoulder of rank and section) and a braided cord (on the right hand side only).
- The stars on the epaulettes are raised. See image number 1.
- Jacket has a back seam and side seams.
- It sits fairly high on the body; the bottom of the jacket is cropped. My guess is to about the belly button, as the top of the pants show (one can see the belt clearly). If pants usually sit around the waist, this means the jacket ends around the same place, so the bellybutton is a good guess.
- The jacket has a collar similar to a dress shirt and cuffs that are the folded-back type with a slit in them (a bit different from dress-shirts). See the 2nd and 3rd images below.
- The jacket crosses over and closes like a double-breasted jacket. However, no buttons are visible.
- The jacket has at least 2 closures; one at the bottom of the flap and one at the top, under the collar. They can be seen in the 4th and 5th images below, of the crimson alchemist's jacket and from art book of the guy who wears his jacket open all the time
- The front middle flap sits on top of the left and right sides. You'd have to put the trim on this, then close it somehow. See the 6th image below.
- It's trimmed in the same color as the skirt. Trim goes all around the bottom of the jacket, the cuffs, and the collar. There are two stripes running up the front, about in line with the nipples. These vertical stripes are in line with the edge of the "skirt", so the silver/grey lines up nicely. There are grey bars across the chest that these meet. The trim does not continue on the part of the jacket that gets overlapped (as seen in image 5).
- All trim is "double sided", as in it's seeable on the inside of the jacket/skirt. Please look at image 7 below, of Hughes sitting. The trim is seeable on the inside curve of his jacket.
- Those grey bars across the chest are pockets (at least, the one on the left is). In image number 8, Hughes pulls out a picture of Elishia from his left pocket. The right has the loop for the braided cord above it, so it's likely not a pocket. [If a men's dress shirt has only one pocket, it's on the left. This is because most people are right handed, so it's easier to reach on the opposite side.]
- On females, the jacket is generally more fitted than on the males, but it fits fairly large.
- It has two yellow snaps/decals on the front flap.
Suggested jacket patterns
Simplicity 7274 (civil war uniform, men's; would require some altering, but it's got cuffs, collar, and a somewhat wrap-over flap that could be altered for the front flap; I wouldn't use the pants pattern, it's not accurate (but would work, if you wanted to use it))
Butterick 3723 (double breasted, cuffs, wrong collar (but easily alterable, I should think), and good because it's with tails - just don't put on the tails part and leave it a bit bigger so it's not quite as fitted, and the front is at the right height already)
Butterick 3648 (double breasted, waist coat; minus tails, change seams in back, and alter collar (make it close more))
Please note: These are only suggestions. I have not tried them out before. I also only looked through the websites of Simplicity, Mccalls, Butterick and Vogue. There are more pattern sites online and more patterns in the catalogs at the stores. All pattern backs have fabric suggestions.
Construction suggestions
Use a heavy interfacing in the jacket collar; as well, make the piece holding the collar larger than normal (if you have a pattern, you'll see what I mean - it's rather small on an actual dress shirt). You want the collar to stick up without needing an upper button or clasp of any kind.
Material Suggestions
I'd use something a bit heavier in order to achieve the crisp military look. You want something that irons well, and holds up, et drapes nicely. A heavy cotton, twill, or bottom weight should work. School uniforms in Japan are a wool-polyester blend, so that type of material should work well, too. Wool is heavy, but keeps things like pleats nicely. Avoid "pure" polyesters, silks, cheap cottons and broadcloths (any fabric you'd have to double up with is too thin). For the trim, I suggest bias tape, either in a shade of grey, or make your own out of your choice of silvery material. You might be able to find other trim ribbons that will work
Dress Uniform
King Bradley seems to wear a dress uniform all the time. The only other time the dress uniform is seen is at a funeral. The pants appear to be the usual pants, but the jacket is lengthened (for the males) and a white button up shirt is worn underneath (for everybody). Many wear the trench coats and the hat. There are usually medals under the colored bars worn with this outfit. For Roy's, click image number two. The women wear a skirt with this uniform, and it goes a bit past the knees.
Dress Uniform Patterns
Simpicity 5687
Butterick 6834 (long version, make it a bit shorter)
Butterick 4388 (both short or long skirt)
Butterick 4081
For Plus Sizes, Simplicity 4708 might work. It's got skirts and pants.
Please note: These are only suggestions. I have not tried them out before. I also only looked through the websites of Simplicity, Mccalls, Butterick and Vogue. There are more pattern sites online and more patterns in the catalogs at the stores. All pattern backs have fabric suggestions.
Roy's Miniskirt Vision
Roy Mustang is always talking about how, when he's Fuhrer all the women will wear miniskirts. The following images are from a scan of the back poster from Fanbook 5. By looking at Lt. Ross, you can see the jackets are more like vests (sleeveless), and it's a miniskirt with a mini-fake skirt. (I love how Hawkeye is refusing to wear it and punching him in the face, and how the other guys are blushing. ^^) The fourth picture is from episode 13 and shows a pleated mini instead of a regular mini..
Accessories
The uniform is worn with many accessories. It has bars across the left chest, where the pocket line goes, pins on the collar, knife/gun belts, boots, gloves, epaulettes, braided cord, a hat, and a trench coat. State Alchemists also have a watch.
Colored Bars
The colored bars vary from person to person, so please see the individual costume profile. The colored bars are worn where the grey stripe is, so it usually can't be seen. I am in the process of creating a database, so far I only have Roy, Armstrong and Hughes done. I do not believe these change throughout the season.
As for size, I believe it would vary slightly based on your jacket measurements, but I think if it were the height of the bias tape tall (depends on the width you used) and about 10 cm long, that might be ok. Mind you, I haven't made one, I'm only guessing.
Construction suggestions
It has been suggested to make the colored bars out of LEGOs.
You could possibly also embroider it by hand, or use the largest zigzag on your machine to machine embroider it. You might also be able to print it out on iron-on transfer paper, and then attach to felt for a bit of stiffness. Or print out on paper, and then laminate it, and glue it to a foamie/craft foam sheet.
You might be able to find one on Yahoo Japan Auctions (someone informed me that they found a nice one there; it was home-made, but it might save you the hassle if you want to do it that way). You can use Rinkya, Celga or Shopping Mall Japan to purchase things for you over YJA.
Pins
There are two pins. One is larger and rectangular shaped, and the other is a long skinny rectangle. They are worn on the right flap of the collar only. The larger one, which is in front, has the "serpent" logo on it. The other has a small circle on the side farthest away from the front, and series of lines/small squares. I am not sure what each of the pins signifies, as all uniforms have the same ones. Construction suggestions: Use paperclay or sculpy, and shape the pin as you like. Then let it air dry or bake it, and paint it with a silver or chrome paint. You could also try metallic leafing, available at bigger craft stores. You can glue safety pins or that other kind of pin to it. If you are good with resin casting, I'd go with that route to obtain consistent results if you have to make more than one.
A user Angelphie on cosplay.com suggested the following method and provided the images:
1. Print off the pictures as an iron-on transfer (the image that looks like a paint program drawing).
2. Iron it to a piece of felt (it's thicker).
3. Attach it to the collar.
You could probably print the same image out, and laminate it, and glue it to a piece of grey foamie/craft foam for the same look.
Braided Cord
The braided cord is worn over the right shoulder. It is yellow/gold in color, and clasps under the arm with a small metal T-shape. It sits about in the middle of the epaulette. The rest hooks onto a round ring on the jacket. Construction suggestions: Many band uniforms have these, so you could try looking at a band uniform supply store, or a military store. Otherwise, you can purchase braided trim at fabric stores. you can melt or seal the ends, and fashion your own T-shape out of sculpy or something similar.
A suggestion for the metal tubing at the end is foil-plating a large drinking straw (or painting, or what-have-you to make it silver).
Hat
The hat is currently being sold at Animate (anime merchandise store in Japan) and possibly at Animate-USA. It has only been worn with the dress uniform so far (the long one worn at funerals). It is a matching blue color, with a small black brim. It has a crest on the front that has a gun and sword crossed in front of the serpent.
Hat Construction suggestions
Visit a military surplus shop, and see if they have any old navy or police hats in stock. You can cover a hat if it has a different color. It's the shape you're going for. The crest could be drawn on leather/pleather and glued to the hat. You could also attempt to embroider it on some black fabric with some silver/grey embroidery floss. Making a printout on to a dark-fabric iron-on fabric might work, too.
Knife Belt
The knife belt is worn by Maes Hughes; the knife is held at his right side. I believe it is attached to the belt. The gun belts are separate, and attached to the silver buttons above the front skirt details. The gun can change sides, from left to right, depending on the handedness of the individual. It has a holster as well as a small pouch for ammo. Construction suggestions: For the knife holder, make a small tube out of the same silver material, and attach it to the belt (Velcro? sew it?). For the gun holster, perhaps purchasing a cheap on at the dollar store from a kids toy set is a good place to start. Then you can cover it or fashion your own using it as a guide. Use belt loops to attach it to the belt. Same for the ammo pouch. Perhaps something can be found at the military surplus store. For the brown belt, perhaps use a wide belt if you can find one, or make one out of leather/pleather/heavy vinyl. You can add small rings/d-rings to the edges (they sell them in fabric stores, think of those things that you used to use to close the straps on your denim suspender coveralls). Just make sure the silver buttons are sewn on nice and tight, to be able to support the weight. You might be able to try heavy duty snaps as well.
Gloves
The boots seem to be the standard issue military boots. Black, with a slight heel. They are higher than the ankle, but not as high as the knee. They aren't even as high as mid-calf, but come close. Suggestions: Check out an Army/Military Surplus store, a local thrift store, or the boot section of your favorite shoe store. I think 8-10 hole Dr. Martins (Docs) are about the right height.
Gloves are currently worn only by Roy Mustang. More info under his section.
Epaulettes
Epaulettes are the things on the shoulders with the stripes and stars. They vary depending on section and rank. The stars should stick up slightly above the epaulette material (see the first image under Jacket). At the part near the neck, it's slightly curved, and has a large yellow button/snap. For more details, please check out the individual profiles. I hope to create an "Epaulette Database" in the future. Val from http://firebirdie.net created the digitized version of the database at right.
Not on these databases in Fuery's; he has a single yellow stripe down the middle, approximately 1/3 of the size of the epaulette, with 3 stars.
I have found a military supply website called http://www.soldiercity.com that sells 5/8" gold stars.
Trench Coat
The trench coat appears to be black. Roy Mustang is seen wearing one most often, but there are images of other characters wearing the same one. It seems to have a shoulder yoke, a back seam with a slit (not as large as the skirts), and ends about halfway between the skirt and the boots (perhaps an inch or two above the boots, because just a little bit of pants peeks out). Construction suggestions: Buy one! Definitely a thrift store find. It's not that essential to the uniform, so it's not something I'd bother to waste a lot of time making. If you want to make it, you can find patterns from the "big" companies at your local fabric store in the catalog books or online.
Alchemist Watch
The watch is a silver pocket watch. It has the same serpent logo on it as the collar pins. All state alchemists have one. It's usually worn attached to the pants somehow, and in the pants pocket. It has a silver chain. Inside Edward's watch is inscribed "Don't forget. 3.Oct. 10"
Individual Character Costume Profiles
Organized by alphabetical order
Frank Archer
- He wears the general uniform.
- His epaulettes have 4 stripes on them. His first one has 2 stars (up to ep 37 he has two), but he gets promoted and later has 3 stars (ep 39 he has 3). I think it changes in ep 38/39.
- Skirt - The slit on his skirt is high, like that on Roy and Hawkeye's.
Undershirt
- He wears a white button up shirt underneath, like Roy does.
- He has a gun, worn on the right hand side.
Alex Louis Armstrong
- Armstrong wears the regular uniform (albeit at a much larger size).
- Epaulettes - Armstrong also has 4 stripes on his epaulette. His are shaped like Roy's: The stripes are evenly spaced, but the middle two stripes are about twice the size of the others. He has only 1 star. armstrong_epaulette_sketch.jpg (38914 bytes)
- Skirt - His "skirt" has a high slit, like Roy's and Riza's, with a small upside-down triangle.
King Bradley/Fuhrer
- He doesn't wear the usual uniform. I think he wears a dress uniform all the time (similar to the ones worn at the funeral).
- Epaulettes - His epaulettes have 3 yellow stripes. However, the middle stripe is very large, covering about one third of the epaulette. The remaining yellow stripes cover the middle third of the remaining blue. He has 4 stars down the middle.
- Pants - His pants are different from the others. Perhaps they are different because he is wearing them on top of his boots. There is a front crease, but no "puffiness".
- Jacket - His jacket is the dress uniform jacket. It has a similar design, but is much longer. It is like combining the skirt and jacket into one piece. It's as long as the skirt pieces are. The front panel overlaps both side panels. It also has the usual silver/grey trim. The front flap is also larger than on the other uniforms. As well, he has two layers of trim on his sleeve cuffs.
He wears a sword at his left hip. The strap goes over his shoulder, but under the right epaulette.
Denny Brosh
- He wears the usual uniform as well.
- Colored Bars - He has none.
- Epaulettes - His epaulette has only one skinny stripe down the middle, with two stars (wider than the stripe).
- Skirt - The slit goes halfway, but doesn't quite reach the cuff of his shirt when his arms are at his sides.
- Brosh has a gun. His is on the same side as Hawkeye - the right. His ammo pouch is on the left.
Basque Gran
- He wears the general uniform (albeit at a larger size).
- Colored Bars - Not only does he have colored bars, he also has medals. This is what it looks like based on the images: (still under construction).
- Epaulettes - ??
Riza Hawkeye
- Riza wears the usual uniform, very similar to Roy's. She has opted not to wear the skirt allowed by females in the military. The only time she has worn a skirt with her uniform has been with the dress uniform at the funeral.
- Colored Bars - Riza doesn't have any. She only has the grey strips on her jacket.
- Epaulettes - Riza's epaulettes always have 3 stripes on them. The middle strip is the fattest, about the size of the yellow button. The side stripes are about half the width of the fat one. If the epaulette could be divided into 10 units, it would go like this: 1- blue 2- yellow 3, 4- blue 5,6 - yellow 7,8 - blue 9- yellow, 10- blue (I hope that made sense). Occasionally, it's drawn with all 3 stripes having the same width. When she was younger and had short hair, her epaulette had only one star. Now, it has two.
- Undershirt - Riza wears the same color undershirt as most of the other guys; however, hers is fitted and has a high neck (mock turtleneck). It seems to be that brownish-black color. In the manga illustrations, it looks black. At the funeral, she wears a white button up shirt.
- Guns. See "Accessories" above, under "General Uniform".
Jan Havoc
- He wears the regular uniform. He is almost always seen with a cigarette in his mouth.
- Colored Bars - Havoc has none.
- Epaulettes - His have 3 stripes. They are the same as Riza Hawkeye's. He has only one star. In the color image, the small mark near his face in the star, not the button of the epaulette.
- Skirt - Jan's "skirt" has a shorter slit (about midway), with a small upside-down triangle decal at the point.
Maes Hughes
- Hughes wears the regular uniform.
- Colored Bars - ??
- Epaulettes - Hughes also has 4 stripes on his epaulettes. However, all of his stripes, blue and yellow, appear the same size (therefore, divide the epaulette into 9 parts). I am not sure how many stars he had when younger, but he currently has two, spaced evenly from the button.
- Undershirt - Hughes wears the usual undershirt.
- Skirt - His "skirt" slit isn't as high as the others. It's only about halfway up the skirt. As well, the upside-down triangle at the top is larger than on the other's.
- Knife Accessory. See "Accessories" above, under "General Uniform".
Zolf J. Kimbley
- Kimbley usually wears his jacket undone at the top snap/button. His hair is long and tied back with a long ribbon/strip of fabric. He has tattoos on the palms of his hands that allow him to perform alchemy (see color image to the left).
- Colored Bars - ???
- Epaulettes - Kimbley's epaulettes have 4 thin yellow strips and 2 stars.
- Undershirt - Kimbley wears the usual brown/maroon colored shirt underneath.
- Kimbley has a casual outfit as well, which is a maroon-purple shade.
Roy Mustang
- Roy wears the usual uniform. The slit in the back of his uniform goes to about where his cuff ends on his sleeves when his hands are by his sides. The slit is the same as Hawkeye's.
- Colored Bars - Based on 3 different close images of the bars, I have come to conclude that it looks like this: (missing image)
- Funeral Bars - In addition to the usual colored bars, Roy has a series of medals underneath.
- Epaulettes - Roy's epaulettes always have 4 yellow stripes on them (signifies his division). The stripes are evenly spaced, but the middle two stripes are about twice the size of the others. At the part near the neck, it's slightly curved, and has a large yellow button/snap.
- Flashback Roy has only 1 star (episode 15).
- Younger Roy had 2 stars (evenly spaced from the button, right in the middle blue stripe).
- For most of the series, Roy (Colonel) has 3 stars.
- The final version of Roy's uniform (last few episodes) has 4 stars.
There's also this image, from the second TV Animation Artbook, that shows him with the same type of epaulette as King Bradley, but with no stars. His colored bars have also changed - there's now three rows.
- Undershirt - Roy has decided to be different; or perhaps he likes being in "dress mode" all the time for the ladies. He wears a white button up dress shirt underneath his uniform jacket.
- Gloves - Roy wears gloves sometimes. They are a special fiber, helping him light fires, as he is the Flame Alchemist. The design on his gloves is a transmutation circle. These gloves can be purchased from COSPA. You might be able to find them on Yahoo Auctions Japan, Animate-USA or eBay. If you want to put on an iron-on patch, you can get the design from Jan's page, www.janchan.com.
Maria Ross
- She wears the regular uniform, same as Riza Hawkeye.
- Colored Bars - She doesn't have any.
- Epaulettes - Her epaulettes have 3 skinny stripes and one star in the middle.
- Skirt - Her skirt slit ends a little before midway. it doesn't go as high as the cuffs on her sleeves when she's got her arms down.
- Ross also has guns, like Hawkeye. However, Ross' gun is on the left side, as she's left-handed.
Sheska
- She has a slightly different uniform. She wears a skirt with her jacket. THis is also the same uniform she puts Winry in during episode 38.
- Colored Bars - She doesn't have any.
- Epaulettes - She has some, but they are just plain blue with a yellow snap/button at the neck to keep it down. It appears to be the same as Havoc's.
- She is lacking the braided cord as well.
- Her jacket is slightly more fitted than the other women's jackets (perhaps because she's got a desk job).
- She wears a skirt instead of the pants. I have described the skirt above, under "General Uniform".
- She has a badge/patch on her left arm.
- Undershirt - I can't see any white, or any brownish color, although that's most likely what she's wearing underneath.
Resources
Books & Websites
http://www.sonymusic.co.jp/Animation/hagaren/ - TV Animation 鋼の錬金術師 (Fullmetal Alchemist) - Official Japanese page
TV Animation Fullmetal Alchemist Initial Materials - by Square-Enix
TV Animation Fullmetal Alchemist Art Book - by Square-Enix
TV Animation Fullmetal Alchemist Art Book 2 - by Square-Enix
TV Animation Fullmetal Alchemist Characters Collection - by Square-Enix
TV Animation Fullmetal Alchemist Official Fanbooks vol. 1,2,3,4,5
Fullmetal Alchemist (Illustration Book), Hiromu Arakawa
http://www.animate-usa.com - sells Animate merchandise in America, a one-man company, not a retail Animate
http://www.fullmetal-alchemist.com - fansite
http://www.fullmetalalchemist.com - Official English site
http://home.earthlink.net/~edge7z/index.html - Asskicking Alchemy and Automail; fansite
http://www.sugoiweb.com/anime/fma/ - fansite - great gallery
Sewing Related Sites
Simplicity
McCalls, Butterick, Vogue
http://www.sewing.org
Bidding Services for Yahoo Japan Auctions, etc.
http://www.rinkya.com
http://www.celga.com
http://www.shoppingmalljapan.com
